Boat jack stands steady a hull stored on land, but they are not jacks and they are not a substitute for proper blocking. Look for factory-made stands with a pad that suits the hull, an adjustable screw with clean threads, a solid base and a way to chain pairs together, then place them as the maker and your yard direct. Most published guidance is written for larger hulls, so for a small powerboat the question is often trailer or stands.
Trailer or stands: which fits your boat
Many smaller powerboats are stored on their trailers, where the bunks or rollers support the hull. If that is your setup, see bunk vs roller trailers and our storage options guide first.
A few questions settle most of it. Does your yard allow owner-supplied stands, or does it use its own? Does the boat maker identify support points on the hull? Is the ground firm and level, or will you need pads? And is anyone available to help, since lifting and blocking a boat is not a one-person job? If the answer to the last question is no, hire the yard.
Stands come into play when the boat comes off the trailer: a yard storing it on land, work on the hull or bottom, or a boat too large for a trailer. The boat maker's support points and the yard's policies matter more than any internet rule. Ask the yard what it requires, and note that many yards block and stand boats for you.
What to look for in the stands
| Feature | Why it matters | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Top pad | Spreads the contact against the hull; a V-shaped top suits some hull shapes | That the pad shape suits where it will sit |
| Adjusting screw | Lets you set height and keep contact | Clean, greased threads and room left to adjust after blocking |
| Base | Sets stability on the ground; some bases bear on soft ground better, others may skid | Rigid pads under the feet on soft or paved ground |
| Chain points | Allow pairs to be tied together across the boat | Hardware that suits chain, not rope or wire |
| Construction | Home-built and no-name stands are the ones to be careful with | A maker's rating label; no figures are quoted here |
Before you buy, check the basics. Is the stand's adjustment range right for the height the hull will sit at? Does the pad have a surface that will not mark the hull? Are the welds, legs and screw free of cracks, bends and heavy corrosion? Does it come with a rating and instructions from a maker you can contact? For a second-hand stand, ask to see the whole stand, not just the top.
Published guidance from Practical Sailor says to avoid home-built and no-name stands. Rating figures vary by stand and boat, so read the label on the stand and the boat maker's guidance, and ask your yard.
Placement basics from published guidance
The boats.com article, quoting ABYC TY-28, and the Practical Sailor guide describe the same principles. They are written mostly for larger and sailing hulls, so treat them as background, not instructions for your boat.
- Use pairs. Space pairs of stands no more than 10 feet apart, with the first and last pairs within 10 feet of the ends of the waterline.
- Go outboard. Place stands as far outboard as practical, with the adjusting screw roughly perpendicular to the hull.
- Chain the pairs. Chain each pair together across the boat, using at least 3/16-inch chain. Rope or wire is not recommended, as it can stretch and let stands slip.
- Do not stack. Do not stack blocks on top of stands to extend their reach, and do not block more than two legs of one stand.
- Keep room to adjust. Leave the screw adjustable after blocking is done.
The two sources also say the boat's weight should be carried by blocking, not the stands, unless a stand is designed for that load. If your yard uses keel blocks, let it set them. Follow the yard's rules over any general guidance.
Ground, covers and winter checks
Ground matters. Both sources recommend rigid pads such as plywood under the feet on soft ground, and Practical Sailor suggests using them on paving as well, since stands can slide. Freeze and thaw cycles and storms can shift things, so boats.com says to give extra attention during freeze-thaw cycles, before and after storms and on soft ground.
If the hull flexes at a stand, stop and ask a professional to move or add a stand. Practical Sailor says if anything strains, something is wrong.
When to leave it to the yard
Before you hand the boat over or set it up yourself, walk the ground, note where water drains, and take photos of the setup for later comparison. A quick look after the first hard freeze or heavy storm catches settling early. If a stand has shifted, a pad has sunk or a chain has slackened, ask the yard to correct it rather than nudging it yourself.
Practical Sailor notes that most blocking work is best left to professionals, and that is sound advice for any heavy hull. Blocking a boat is a lifting and stability job, and a mistake can hurt people. If you do your own stands, use the maker's rating and instructions, work with help, and check the setup after weather changes. Add stand checks to your seasonal maintenance calendar.
Boat Jack Stands
Choose a factory-made stand with a rating label that suits your boat. Used stands can work if the welds, screw threads and base are sound and the label is readable; skip unlabeled ones.
Plywood or Composite Stand Pads
Wider pads spread the load under each foot. Check the pad's thickness and material suit outdoor storage.
Galvanized Chain for Stand Pairs
Check the chain size against the guidance above and the stand maker's instructions. Use a chain with matching hardware.